A trip maybe?

I've been in St. Lucia for four months now, and I've done most of the big tourist things to do on the island, often more than once. I'm thinking it may be time to take a long weekend and head to somewhere else in the Caribbean. Book a resort (or hostel, but I don't know if they have them in this part of the world) and spend a weekend and have a "real" Caribbean holiday.

I'm trying to think of places to go... Grenada? St. Kitts? Suggestions??

Friends!

Wow, long time no blog.

I guess since March not much has really happened until last week when my friends Terry, Chris, Robi and Robert came down for a week.

It was great to see them again, but it was too bad about the weather. They came during the rainiest April in St. Lucia's recorded history. So it pretty well poured the entire time they were here, but we had a few good times anyway.

I met up with Robi and Robert in Vancouver, and from there we flew from Vancouver to Toronto. In Toronto we met up with Chris in the airport, and the three of us travelled down to St. Lucia. When we got there it was nice and sunny, and we went back to my place and hung out for the night, then walked around downtown and went and checked out the beach at night.

The next day on Monday we hiked Pigeon Island and got some great views of Rodney Bay. We then did some swimming in the bay, had dinner at a restaurant in Pigeon Island park, and were joined by Terry.

The next day it started and pretty much didn't stop till Saturday. We spent the next few days at my boss's house, making up our own version of Marco Polo to play in the pool, and heading out see the Rodney Bay nightlife during the evening. We met some fun people and got to see the Gros Islet Street Party. We even went deep sea fishing during a rain storm and caught two tuna, a mackerel and I caught a barracuda!

Finally on Saturday it cleared, which was good, because it was the day of our day long boat cruise down the west side of the island. We finally got to see the Pitons, and swam on the beach and enjoyed a day of cruising, sipping on rum punch. I'm very glad we got at least that one day, since all the guys but Terry left on Sunday.

It was great seeing them all again, and I hope I can convince them to come down again for some better weather.

Parents!

I'm in the middle (past the middle now I guess... sigh) of my parents visit and it's wonderful. My parents are extremly.... let's say "mobile" people. They aren't really into "hanging out" or "relaxing" as most people do it. Instead, they focus on getting as much out of an experience and/or opportunity as possible. I'm the same way when I travel, so it hasn't been an idealogical conflict, but boy has it been tiring!

I've been on vacation on the island with my parents for 6 days now, and I think we've hit almost all the major tourist activities that you can do here. So far we've:

1. Hiked the British fort ruins on Pigeon Island
2. Gone to the sulfur mud bathes
3. Hiked the Tet Paul nature trail
4. Snorkeled in Anse Conche
5. Traveled to the French island, Martinique
6. Sampled most of the popular local eateries
7. Ziplined in Dennery
8. Checked out fabric shops (this one was more for my mom)
9. Shopped at the craft market's in Castries

I'm not sure what's left to do!

I have a car!

So a bunch of stuff has happened.

The weird thing about working in a foreign country, as opposed to just traveling, is that most days are like the days before them. Five days out of seven I go to work, go home, make dinner and go to sleep, repeat. It's a lot like being at home, but warmer. The result is that I rarely feel the need to blog about my adventures because, well, I don't have that many!

I'm also getting sick of the bums on the main tourist drag (that I have to walk down to get to the grocery store) asking me for money. Why don't you remember that I NEVER give you anything? I've been here for a month and a half! You must have seen me before. I'm pretty sure that I'm the only person on this island that looks kind of Mexican.

So anyway, about those things.

I went to Marigot Bay and Soufriere the previous couple of weekends. Both beautiful spots.

Marigot Bay is a little upscale for my tastes, but that's okay sometimes. It's almost exclusively yachters and people who can afford to stay in the upscale Marigot Bay Hotel (starts at $600 a night, but it looks nice). So very high end in all. But a nice spot, and there IS a little, weird guesthouse I got a tour of (without any prompting on my side, by the way) that has tourist and resident rates. Since I technically live here, I get the resident rate, so if you want to stay in Marigot let me know, and I'll hook you up.

Another little detail of St. Lucia life is the tourist and resident rates for many services. Every where you travel you know there's the "tourist" price and the "local" price (there's also the "Isreali" price, which they negotiate to be lower than the local price, and is annoying). But I never knew that it was actually an enshrined thing. In St. Lucia it seems to be an official thing, and they will tell you outright what the resident and tourist prices are.

Which came up the following weekend, when we went to Soufriere. Soufriere is a little town nestled in a valley just before the Pitons. The Pitons are two dormant volcanoes that are the two primary natural landmarks in St. Lucia. I went with my boss, his wife and the wife's folks. I'm getting tired of writing, so I'll just say it was great, we went snorkeling and hung out on the beach.

Oh, and the reason for the title of this post! My boss dropped off the company car, so for the first time in St. Lucia I can go where ever I want, when ever I want! I'm going to go to Mega J's. It's like Costco.

I also got a new place! More on that later...

Checklist

So from last week's list, this is what actually got done:

1. Go to the capital, Castries - Check! Drove down with my boss and his wife on Saturday.
   
2. While in Castries, get my phone unlocked so I can pop in a local SIM card and start calling and texting people again. - Check. I had to leave it there for a few days for them to unlock it. My boss had to go down to Castries yesterday, and he picked up my now unlocked phone for me.
   
3. Check out the Castrie's art and farmer's markets - Semi-check. I did SEE them, but didn't really spend any time there.
   
4. Go on an exploratory mission to Marigot Bay - Nope. Turns out getting to Marigot Bay is more challenging than I thought. But I'm going to try again this Saturday.
5. Actually spend time on the beach. - Kinda. I went down to the beach on Sunday, but it started raining. It seems like it only rains on the weekends here...
   
6. Hike Pigeon Island. - Super checked! I want to go back there, it's the nicest part of the island I've seen so far.

Here are some pictures from Pigeon Island:

Back Half of the Work Week!

As I've mentioned before, there's not much I can get up to Monday to Friday. I get up, go to work, get home around 5:30 or 6, and the sunsets at about 6:30. I don't have a car, and walking that gravel road by myself in the dark is always slightly unnerving (although I do it quite often anyway). So when I get home I eat, do some laundry/ironing, then sit on the couch for a few hours until it's bedtime. The cable has been out since the weekend and the internet is painfully slow for someone used to megabit speeds and a constant stream of entertainment and information, so my options to entertain myself are limited.

The weekday grind gets a change tomorrow, when my project manager gets in to St. Lucia. He's my semi-boss, middle aged with kids and my roommate. So that will be... interesting.

But more than anything, I look forward to the weekends in St. Lucia when I am free to really experience the island. Here are the few things I've got planned for this weekend:

1. Go to the capital, Castries
2. While in Castries, get my phone unlocked so I can pop in a local SIM card and start calling and texting people again.
3. Check out the Castrie's art and farmer's markets
4. Go on an exploratory mission to Marigot Bay (what is supposed to be one of the more scenic areas of the island) and check out the Doolittles bar, unbehalf of an interested YK buyer (I briefly looked it up. It's ranked 6 out of 7 for bars in Marigot Bay. Less than promising...)
5. Actually spend time on the beach. Something I have yet to do despite the beach being - literally - two minutes away.
6. Hike Pigeon Island. This thing:It's supposed to afford you great views of Rodney Bay. Where my path to the beach comes out is on the exact opposite end of the beach that Pigeon Island is the bookend of.
   

So for now, I guess I'm living for the weekend!

Pictures of St. Lucia

People have been asking for pictures of St. Lucia and since every is closed on Sundays and the weather wasn't good enough to go for a hike or hang out on the beach, I walked around the Rodney Bay area I live in and took a few pictures.

Looking goofy on the porch

The view of the beach from my porch

Sailboats on the beach

The mountain and beach

My apartment building

Lessons Learned...

I had a -mostly- great night tonight.

We finished up work today and I was VERY excited to be done my first week onsite. For the first time, out of all the time I have been in St. Lucia, I was able to really cut loose and do what ever I felt like, without having to consider that I have to be ready to work in the morning.

I started off the night when I got home very low key, just checking FB and my email and playing some Civ 5. After a bit at home, the project manager for the St. Lucia electric company (who lives next door from me) came over and invited me to come to his deck and hang out with himself and some other neighbours in our complex. I did so, and had a great time chatting with them for the next two and a half hours.

After that I came back to my place and asked some trusted advisors (Lindsey Allen... ahem) what I should do next. It was already 11:30 pm, but my "advisor" said I should go out and see what the St. Lucian nightlife is like. That turned out to be great advice, since at my second bar I met a great group of people who I spent the rest of the night with.

They were a group of sailors who I suppose were in the "expiditionary" side of tourism in St. Lucia. We went to a couple different bars and stayed at one well past closing. At that point, John (an English seaman) said he wasn't done partying, so we should come back to his yacht. A few of us did so, and John promptly passed out. Regardless, his wife and another able seaman (Shawn) gave me a crash course on the basics of sailing. It was very informative and very cool. Not being a sea-faring sort AT ALL, they were still very patient at explaining the ins and outs of sailing a ship. I understood and retained none of it, but good on them for trying.

Once Shawn and the Skipper's wife were sick of explaining the same thing over and over to me, we decided to call it a night.

Shawn and I walked out to the main road and eventually flagged a cab. Shawn was going in the opposite direction, but he flagged down a cab going my way and said he knew the driver. He pre-established the cost to get me home at 20EC (Which is about $7.30 CDN... which really, considering it was a 15 minute walk away, was kind of outrageous, but whatever).

When the driver got close to the landmark I gave him (There are no "real" addresses in St. Lucia. It's all based on landmarks) I asked him to let me out, but he insisted on dropping me off at my door for my own safety.

I asked him how much more it would cost to drop my off at my specific address, but he ignored the question. On the way down the road to my apartment, I again asked him how much this "extra" service would cost, and he said $20EC. When we actually got to my apartment, I gave him the $20EC and he said "Give me $10 more".

I did so (I was tired and somewhat drunk and it was 4:30AM and I really just wanted to get home).

I really wish I had written down his cab number so I would know in the future not to call him. That's the lesson learned. I think most service industry people here think that because you're likely a tourist, that they can treat you like crap and it will have no repurcussions. I want them to know early on that I am going to be here for a while.

It's a shame that this is my last experience with tonight, because the vast majority of it was overwhelming positive. I connected with my neighbours in unexpected ways, and made some random good friends for the first time since I've been here (Yay approaching random peeps in a bar!).

I guess if I want to go all Doogie-Howser style here, the life lesson is that when you're in unusual and foreign places you'll encounter some bad experiences, but if you stay open and friendly, the good will out weigh the bad.

Crap, now I've got the Doogie Howser theme music stuck in my head...

Initial Impressions

Finished my first work day. The jet lag really hit me around 11am and the rest of the day was a struggle, since it was just one long meeting. But I'm home now, and just getting settled before going out to try out "The Lime" restaurant near where I live. It's supposed to have good local food, so I'm excited! I haven't had any of the local stuff since I got here (went to Subway for lunch today :P).

Since I'm hungry and it's getting late (it's 4 hours ahead of Vancouver, so it's already 7:30pm) I'm going to jot down a few quick impressions.

1. St. Lucians like their drinks SWEET. I bought some dark beer last night and it was like drinking straight syrup. I took two sips and poured the rest down the drain. Then I tried to wash it down with a little orange juice I got out the grocery store and THAT was sickly sweet, so then I figured "screw it" and tried out the rum I had also picked up that is advertised all over the island. I think you know how that went. And today at the office I tried some coffee...
2. License plates seem to be put together with what ever paint/stencil/piece of metal you have on hand at the time.
3. Watching the local weather channel right now, and the weather guy has a puppet parrot on his hand.
4. The sun goes down here at 6:30 pretty much on the dot. It goes from "bright" to "pitch black" in about the span of 10 minutes. My apartment is at the end of some very dark gravel roads, so I stumbled home today after taking too long at the grocery store.
   
5. Most places are airconditioned inside. Hurray!
6. There's an Irish pub down the street. I don't think I've ever been in a city outside of Canada without it's own Irish pub :).
7. "Guke" is a slang term in St. Lucia, but no one will tell me what it means....
   

That's all for now, off to taste some local St. Lucia food.

Day 1 in St. Lucia

I figured I would revive this ol' thing for the next year and a bit that I'm in St. Lucia. For those who don't know, I accepted a position with a new company in November, and part of my new job means implementing my company's software for the St. Lucia electric company. The project goes from Jan 2011 to April 2012, and during that time I will be back and forth between Vancouver and St. Lucia, but mostly in St. Lucia.


St. Lucia is a tiny little Commonwealth country in the Caribbean, west of Barbados. It's a fairly poor country. Compared to other places I've been in this part of the world, I'd place it below Panama but above Nicaragua. They were also hit by a hurricane this October that did a lot of damage to the island's infrastructure.

Stepping off the plane on the island you're hit with this wave of heat and humidity. It instantly took me back to my time in Central America. Time to get used to feeling slightly sticky all the time! It's great though, the heat and humidity create this really lush jungle landscape.

After going through the fairly simple customs procedures I stepped outside and grabbed a cab to take me to my apartment on in Rodney Bay, on the north tip of the island. Due to the infrastructure damage, we had to take the longer route up the east side of the island. The east side is also the less developed side, so you really can see a lot of the natural beauty of St. Lucia.

After getting to my apartment I went down to the beach a hundred meters away and found a little beach front "restaurant". It seems like pretty much anyone with a shack and a burner can set up a restaurant here, so these tiny little operations are EVERYWHERE. You'll never go hungry in St. Lucia, that's for sure.

Now I'm getting settled in and getting ready for my first day on the project tomorrow!

Yellowknife, Canada

I am now back in Yellowknife. My levels of excitement of that fact are exactly what the more pessimistic among you would expect.

Vancouver was fun. St. Paddy's Day was a complete mess, as it should be. And spending a couple days on a university friend's couch fills you with the kind of nostalgia that makes you wonder why you ever stopped hanging out on university friend's couches and at some point decided to be silly and get a job.

And good news!!! My camera did not delete all of my pictures! So I still have photos of the first half of my trip! Hurrah!

Today I need to sort through a small mountain of souvenirs and get a haircut. No one in Asia will cut curly hair. I asked all of them, it took up the majority of my trip.

Till next time!





(Mongolia?....)

Hong Kong (2)

It occured to me today that Sunday is not a good day to really see the consumerism capital of Asia. The British influence is still here in a couple ways, including 70% of shops being closed on Sundays. That being said, they still was a lot of frenized shoppers around. Early on in the day I ducked into a store and bought a shirt that was on sale just so that I could have a shopping bag to walk around with and feel a bit more in place. Being a backpacker in one of the nicest dressed cities in the world makes one feel a tad out of their element.

I also love subways, I realized today. They're wonderfully efficient. I found out today that I can get practically from the doorstep of Chungking Mansion to the Airport terminal althrough the subway. It made me very happy.

Also, Chungking Mansion is just the hellhole I was lead to believe it was. When telling people in Hanoi that I was going to stay in Chungking they all laughed and smiled and would say no more. It's packed with touts and little stalls trying to sell you something, and the rooms are arranged in the same manner that I imagine bees step up their hives. Every little corner has it's own hostel. My first room last night was an old converted bathroom, turned into a four bed dormitory. All the electrical wiring fixtures had been accomplished by masking type. The mattress was paper thin and the bathroom was absurdly tiny. I ran into a Quebecois there and he remarked what a nice place it was. I can only assume one of three things:

1. He's nuts.
2. The owner pays him to walk into crap rooms and make clearly ridiculous statements like this.
3. He's had a very sad and very poor quality life so far.

Today I switched into a different room. Equally tiny, but much nicer.

They picnic in Hong Kong. I'm not sure if people are aware of this. But they don't picnic in the park or in the wilderness, like normal people. They picnic in shopping malls and across from Cartier and Burberry stores. They lay down a blanket, get out their lunch, play cards, just all the normal things people do on picnics, but beside a parking meter and breathing in car fumes.

The guy beside me really needs to blow his nose.

Hong Kong really is kind of like Vancouver, just with more Asians.

Okay, the same number of Asians.

They have McDonalds here! It's one of those awful things from home you start to miss after a while. At least I do. I went today for a little bit of lunch. They don't really understand the tray system here. You finish your meal, you do to the garbage, dump it in, put the tray on top. As I watched everyone just left their tray on the table or put the fully loaded try right on top of the garbage. When I was done eating I very slowly and very deliberately went through the proper steps for the benefit of everyone watching. I like to think I've bettered Hong Kong a tiny bit.

I may never say this again, but thank God for British colonialism. After a month of trying to navigate streets named Hong Trang, Bang Lo, Sveet Chariot finding streets named things like "Pender", "Nathan" and "Hollywood" is a big relief.

I leave Hong Kong tomorrow. Right now I am off to a bar recommended by this guy Jimmy I met in Finnigans in Hanoi. I've been there before, and sure enough, random bar dudes really now the good places to drink.

Hong Kong

I just passed by a luggage store called "Ever Rich". The YKers get it.

Hanoi it turns out was a very good time. It was nice to be back in the enveloping socialness of a hostel. Every night in Hanoi ended with a trip to Finnigans. Of course the capital city of Vietnam has an Irish bar down the road from the hostel.

I spent one day trying to see an old communist's dead body, but when that didn't work out I got a guy with a motorbike to drive me around to some museums. It was all very culturally enriching. However the only fact that stayed with me is the Vietnamese women blacken their teeth on purpose by chewing a certain type of root. I thought it was just poor hygiene.

While in Hanoi I took a trip to Halong Bay, a UNESCO world heritage site. It was stunningly beautiful, of course. It was also the most randomly organized tour I've taken. On at least four separate occasions I thought that they had completely forgotten me on this bus stop/restaurant/junk/parking lot. Only one of those times they actually had. We were stopping to see some very nice caves and I was in the bathroom. My junk was pulling out as I got out of the bathroom (I just re-read that sentence. I think I need to clarify that "junk" is a certain type of Asian boat), so I had to jump onto another one that was pulling into the dock. In the process I broke my watch, but made it to the caves.

The rest of the trip was cruising around the mist shrouded limestone juts of stone and drinking beers on the top deck. At one point we got to do some night kayaking through a floating village. One of the top ten most surreal experiences of my life. We were kayaking in what I will forever consider a Terry Gitersos Special. Not an actual kayak, but this cheap plastic open bodied affair. Suffice it to say me and Jon (my Swedish kayaking partner) were thoroughly soaked by the end of it and ludicrously happy.

I slept the night on the junk and made it back to Hanoi just in time for the hostel's happy hour. After a brief visit to Finnigans I got email addresses and said goodbye. I got up at 5:30am and shared a taxi with Jon and Christina (my Swedish kayaking partners Swedish wife) to the airport and got into Hong Kong at around 1pm.

I have no idea what to do in Hong Kong. This is one of the few times I've been in a foreign city without the benefit of a guide book. I asked a Hong Kong girl Jenny (we were sharing a room on the junk) what there was to do and she just shrugged, so I've spent my afternoon doing that old backpacker staple; wandering around and getting hopelessly lost in a foreign city.

Hong Kong is very clean and very vertical. Right now I'm sitting in an cyber cafe on the fifth floor of a building that has a very small sign outside a very small door. Everything seems to be like that. Only the very poshest stores actually have space on the bottom of the building, everything else is straight up.

What else... I want to do a Vietnamese coffee tasting when I am back at home. I am determined to find the optimum milk:coffee ratio.

Other than that, I will be back in Vancouver, Canada in just two days!

Hoi An, Vietnam

I just went to get my plane tickets to go from here to Hanoi and from Hanoi to Hong Kong and found out my flight from here to Hanoi has been delayed, so I have an extra hour or so to waste here. I figured I'd fill the time with lists.

Personalities of Nationalities

• Aussies: Friendly, energetic and outgoing for the most part. As it turns out, when you get a group of Aussie boys together they turn into that inexplicable creature, Assholis Maximus. I've found the best way to deal with that is to engage them in some sort of physical violence. Slap them, punch them, whatever. After that they figure you're alright.
• Thais: Talkers. EXTREME talkers. Very friendly, again. Having a conversation with a Thai is one of the easiest things you can ever do. You can just stand there while they rattle off a list of a hundred questions until they know the intimate details of what you do in the bathroom every morning.
• Cambodians: I think they might also be friendly. However, it's next to impossible to really verify this since I only ever met one Cambodian who was not trying to actively sell me something. You can't really blame them though, because as I found out from the one Cambodian I had an actual conversation with, a good wage in Cambodia is 50 cents an hour, and that's only if you are very lucky and are willing to work almost all of your waking hours.
• Vietnamese: Surprisingly funny. You would think a war wracked country would be a bit on the bitter side, but not these guys. And Vietnamese women are surprisingly flirtatious. I found out at the cultural performance Patrick and I went to that if you catch a Vietnamese girl's eye and smile you can make her smile and blush and completely forget what she is doing, in a very charming way.

Weird things I've seen carried on the back of motorbikes
Motorbikes are THE transport for most people in Southeast Asia. And not just for transporting people, for transporting goods as well.

• Six nude mannequins
• Three dead pigs
• A five foot high floral arrangement
• Three (hopefully, but probably not) empty propane tanks
• An entire family of four

Additions to Matt's List of Life Lessons

• Number 74: Never let strange men touch you in a bar
  

Hoi An, Vietnam

So what did I do in Saigon... seems so long ago.... oh yes, I went on a tour of Cu Chi Tunnels, a tunnel network that the Viet Cong used to get within 30km of Saigon during the Vietnam War (or, as they call it here, the American War).

My tour guide was this little crazy, dancing, singing Vietnamese dude. He routinely serenaded us throughout the trip.

Our first stop was at a place with the best name ever - Handicapped Handicrafts. As you can probably guess, the reason behind the place is not equally awesome. It's a place where those disabled by the American use of agent orange are taught how to make crafts, which they then sell to tourists to raise funds for the medical needs of those affected by agent orange. They have some pretty cool stuff.

When we eventually got to the tunnels we got to see a short video about the place. It's quite interesting to see it from the other point of view. The local Vietnamese are very proud of the Viet Cong and how they drove out the Americans. In the video they go through a list of Vietnamese war heroes, usually with a voiceover saying something like "This great Vietnam hero. This number one American killer! She kill more Americans with bombs than anyone else in her section!". All very interesting. The tunnels themselves are incredibly tiny. Our tour guide could fit in them, but no one else could. And he was telling us that some of these stretches are 2km long, with no chance to come up into open air.

At the end of the tour I finally got to fire an AK47! They had a shooting range with ridiculously high priced bullets. So I fired off 10 rounds in about 30 seconds. They guy running the range was getting mad that I was taking too long. Man, are those things loud.

Also on this tour I ran into Patrick, a guy from Winnipeg I first met in Phnom Penh. We were both going to Hoi An, so we booked our tickets and split a room when we got here. He left yesterday, but we're both staying at the same place in Hanoi so we'll see each other again.

Hoi An is a lovely town, and really what you expect when you think of Vietnam. A little town on the edge or a river, with a fusion of Vietnamese and French colonial architecture. The old historic town has a number of sights to see, you buy a ticket and get to see five of them. They're all very nice, but my favourite culture activity of Hoi An so far has to be the cultural performance Patrick and I went to see yesterday. It was in the top of a bar, in a small room. There were only four of us, and about 6 dancers and 4 people in the band. It was cool to see some traditional dances and here the traditional music, made a little odd by there being more performers than audience and that several of the performers couldn't keep from cracking up halfway through.

And boy does this place suck your money. I've bought more tourist knick knacks here than I have in the rest of my trip combined.

Right now I have to go pick up some custom tailored shoes and sort my stuff out before going to Hanoi this afternoon.

Saigon, Vietnam

My camera has stopped working again! Shit fuck damn. Now it won't even turn on. And I have a sinking feeling that it may have deleted all of my pictures from my card...

Saigon officially wins for Most Terrifying City to Cross the Street. You just step out into the path of hundreds of cars and motorcycles and hop between the spaces. Kinda like Frogger.

Anyhow, right now I am off to Hoi An. More later!

Siem Reap, Cambodia

My camera has started to work again! Not all the buttons, but it looks like it can at least take pictures now.

My last day in Phnom Penh I went to see various sites. I meant to see the Killing Fields, but there was some confusion with my moto driver (or he just didn't want to take me the 14 km out of town) and instead ended up at the Toul Sleng (sp?) prison, where Pol Pot sent... well, pretty much anyone, to get tortured before they were sent to be murdered at the killing fields. After that I didn't think I could take any more depression in one day, so went and checked out the Royal Palace. After the seeing the absolute poverty that Phnom Penh stews in, the opulence of the Palace is a little staggering. I went into one room called the Silver Pagoda, where the entire room is filled with treasures and the floor is tiled with silver. They all have religious and cultural significance, but I couldn't help wondering how many hospitals and schools could be built with the money in that one room.

So I went out my last night in Phnom Penh with some random Aussies/Brits/Swiss/Accents I Couldn't Place. We barhopped around where they were staying (and I have never been offered so many drugs in my life, their neighborhood was like a street pharmacy) for a bit and then I packed it in. And of course, I slept right through my alarm the next day and was woken up by the guesthouse driver pounding on my door. The bus was downstairs waiting for me. So I threw everything into my bag and hoofed it down. Out the door I grabbed my laundry bag from the reception.

The bus ride was a little rough to begin with, since I had nothing to eat and the toilet (like many in Asia) took some figuring out before I got the hang of it. I also bought a disgusting sandwich from a stall at noon that I couldn't finish, and that used up the last of the cash I had on me, so I spent the rest of the trip hungry until I got to Siem Reap.

When I did arrive the bus was swarmed by kids asking for money, or straight out trying to get their hands into your pockets. They were very aggressive, so it was kinda overwhelming. That, combined with being constantly hassled by drivers, made me just want to get out of there (Oh, I should mention, moto and tuk-tuk drivers in Cambodia are the most tenacious people I have ever met. I never walked anywhere in Phnom Penh. I would try to walk to the end of my street, but I would be hassled by no less than half a dozen drivers). I saw someone with a sign displaying the name of my guesthouse (who, it turned out, was not actually the driver my guesthouse sent), so I went to him and he gave me a ride for free (the drivers get commissions from the guesthouses/restaurants for picking up tourists and dropping them off at their businesses). We arranged to meet the next day for a trip to Angkor Wat and surrounds.

Oh, and then I realized that I had forgot my laundry bag on the bus. So I lost all my underwear and most of my shirts. I went on an emergency shopping session in the market, and then took in a early night for my next day at Angkor.

Angkor Wat is AMAZING. I haven't been too sure about Cambodia so far. So far it had just seemed like the poorest country I'd been to yet. But Angkor definetly made the trip worthwhile. I over paid for a guidebook and took that around the site with me. Oh, and Terry, I now share your hate of tour groups. The temples at Angkor were never intended for the masses to worship at, instead they were intended as the homes of single deities, so all the passage ways are very narrow, and when they're packed with thirty or forty Japanese and Italians, it makes it almost impossible to see the bas reliefs and stonework.

My camera still wasn't working at this point, but hopefully the disposable I had with me can do it justice.

After Angkor Wat my driver took me around to some other temples and sites in the Angkor area. It was all very nice, but it was very hot out and the climbs up the temple sides were very steep. This resulted, at the end of the day, of me getting back to the hotel and having a replay of what happened to me in Nicaragua after climbing a volcanoe. I developed a very high fever, horribly aching joints and a massive headache. I spent the next eight hours in bed with a wet cold towel wrapped around my head. This morning I was supposed to see more of Angkor, but had to call it off to give my body sometime to rest. I feel fine now, but definitely did not want to repeat that feeling.

Tomorrow I head off to Saigon in Vietnam. I am debating skipping Hanoi, as it seems to get to Hong Kong I will have to go back down to Saigon anyway, and everyone I've talked to who has gone through Hanoi hasn't been that impressed.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Crap, I just lost my entire post. Keystrokes do random things in Asia. And it was a really good one too...

I don't want to type it out again, so I'll just summarize.... in Phnom Penh, got in yesterday, took a motorbike through the city to the guesthouse, Phnom Penh is like a recently rediscovered ancient city, crumbling decadence, etc, met some Aussies, the staff of the guesthouse got off work, we started drinking, dancing on a rooftop with shirtless Cambodians singing AC/DC.

SO after that me and the Aussies, Sam and Sam, went to a pizza place and had some pizza, and then started an evening bar tour of Phnom Penh. They had been here for a few days, so knew some good places. After a couple bars and trying to dance with some locals we realize that our driver had been in all the bars with us, and was probably kinda drunk, so we told him just to take us back to the guesthouse.

Today has pretty much just been recovering. But tomorrow I plan to actually do something. I want to see the Royal Palace, the Killing Fields, maybe go to a shooting range and fire a AK47. Good times!

Koh Samui, Thailand

I survived the Full Moon Party through a formidable amount of pacing.

The day before, the 23rd, we did a round-the-island boat tour, saw the falls that several famous kings of Thailand used to visit, and generally got to see more of the island and hung out on a lot of beaches.

The 24th was the Full Moon Party. Not as crazy as I was expecting really, but still a good time. We met up with some Norwegian girls from the boat trip the day before. May and them broke off and I went off in search of Random Friends. I met three Irish boys, four English blokes, one Aussie guy and two Aussie girls. The Aussies were the most fun of any of them, it made me miss Australia. Around 4am we made our way back to Rainbow Bungalows.

The next day I took off to come here and May went off to Koh Tau, the scuba diving mecca of Thailand. If I had the money or the time to refresh my scuba skills I would have joined her, but instead I'm here on Koh Samui, making my way to Bangkok before heading off to Cambodia. It's unlikely we'll see each other again, so we said our goodbyes at the pier and I was off.

Either the scale on my map is wrong, or my taxi driver took the most circuitous path possible. What looks like 10 km on my map according to the scale ended up being an hour and a half drive. It's amazing how far 100 baht (about $3.25) can take you.

And my bad luck with traveling with cameras continues. My waterproof/shockproof/should-be-generally-indestructible camera is no longer working. At first it kept on insisting that the battery case was open, then the lens got all fogged up, and now none of the buttons other than the power button work. I'm going to look up some troubleshooting guides and hopefully figure it out.

As for now, I'm off to explore a little bit of Koh Samui and generally waste time till my flight leaves tonight for Bangkok.

Koh Phangan, Thailand

Alright, May and I made it! May's flight was canceled, so she ended up getting here a day late. So my first night here I went to Haad Rin with some Canadians from my hotel, met some Swedes at a bar and went to the beach. Good times. The next day May showed up and we spent the day lounging as she acclimatized to Koh Phangan.

Today we've just been walking around Haad Rin, seeing what there is to do. Apparently the Full Moon Party has been delayed to the 24th, so we won't leave till the 25th. We got a Thai Massage today, my second massage ever. That 90 pound girl beat the crap out of me like I stole her money and called her ugly. I'm limping a little bit from what she did to my left leg. All part of the experience though. Tonight we're thinking of going to see a Muay Thai fight.